AN OVERLANDING DREAM TO A JOURNEY: BOTSWANA

Crossing into Botswana at Kazangula was a very appropriate place to go through our last border crossing as it demarks the rough quadripoint of three of the four countries we were exploring on this expedition – Namibia, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Botswana (sadly we had to skip out on Zimbabwe this time as we had extended our incredible time in Zambia). It was also the first time I was to drive on the brand new Kazangua Bridge over the mighty Zambezi and into Botswana. What a breath of fresh air it was in comparison to some of the other border posts I have encountered on my African adventures.

Our entry into Botswana would, however, be a bit of a false start as the very next morning we were crossing borders again and back into Namibia. This time it was via boat, which certainly made for a unique experience and a great memory as far as passport stamps go! For two nights we were hosted by the dynamic management duo of Stewart and Jana at Chobe Water Villas after meeting them 6 weeks prior in Katima Mulillo. To say we were spoiled by the team would be a gross understatement. After 3 months on the road and mostly sleeping in our rooftop tent, we were treated to a king–sized bed that King Henry VIII and all his wives could have fitted into simultaneously. But much like King Henry’s six wives, who didn’t have much time to enjoy their time living in luxury, neither did we as we navigated between lapping up the glorious rim flow pool, going on exceptional river safaris and having the most memorable river cruise braai on Chobe Water Villas’ double-decker boat. To watch the sunset whilst cruising down the Chobe, watching hundreds of elephants, and tucking into a local barbeque was manna from heaven.

Luxury safaris aren’t too terrible!

Our sunset river safari braai courtesy of Chobe Water Villas.

The bush was calling once more and after three glorious days, it was time to head back into Botswana and carry on our journey but not before stopping for a world class curry in Kasane of course! I am not sure if the luxury villas, sumptuous food and ice-filled gins made us soft, but camping at Savute brought us back down to earth faster than steamy elephant dung! It was stiflingly hot (42 degrees hot), sandy and relatively devoid of shade. Even the usual joy of lazing in the hammock was unpleasant as you sweated out your own body weight whilst waiting out the midday sun, and at night the mosquitos came out in their swarms!. Savuti, of course, always manages to ensure that the literal blood, sweat and tears are soon forgotten. For a few days we drove along the marsh roads and the Savuti channel’s sandy tracks, spotted a pride of 26 plus lions, lazed with wild dogs, discovered bushman paintings, got ourselves horrifically stuck as the sun was setting and marvelled at the beautiful koppies and baobabs dotted around.

It is tough life being a dove in Savuti!

A melancholic lion in the flowers!

No marabous at Marabou Pan but there was plenty of aerial acrobatics from my favourite bird, the Short Tail Eagle or Bataleur.

An elephant mud spa.

Khwai, for me, is one of those places you can never tire of. There is something so exciting about the river systems, wooded landscapes, river crossings and sunsets that leave you always wanting more. You definitely know you are in Botswana when in Khwai! Whilst it did not quite deliver in terms of sightings this time around, when you spend your days on short safari drives, playing bananagrams along the banks of the river Khwai and soaking up the energy of this magical place, you are just happy to be there, time and again! We were also very lucky to spend time with our friends at Semunyeni who we have created an amazing overlanding experience – perfect for groups of friends or multi-generational families looking to get the essence of overlanding but with some of the luxury perks of a lodge or mobile camping operation.

Hamerkop vs cheeky teenager! (Stacey)

Khwai! It doesn’t get any better…

A mokoro excursion in Khwai.

Maun was now calling and although sad to be leaving the bush, I was filled with nervous anticipation as every time I have driven the section between Mababe and Maun, I have seen wild dogs. Lady luck was on my side once more and sure enough we found 6 dogs, covered in blood and taking a casual stroll down the main road! On a high, we arrived in Maun, glad to see the sight of ice and a crystal clear swimming pool once again. Restocked and replenished, it was time to head to the world-famous Nxai Pans and Baines Baobabs.

To try to summarize our time spent exploring the salt pans of Botswana has possibly been the hardest passage to write during this entire journey – it was just that profound. It is a place that has to be experienced to understand. The cheeky jackals in camp, the multiple lion mating games at the waterhole and relaxed elephants who decided to take a snooze against our awning were all perfectly casted characters to round up our epic expedition thus far. The brilliance in the expansiveness of the pans and multitude of sounds, both day and night, provided the perfect soundtrack for the ending of our story. The stars of the show however were the Baines Baobabs. It is, in part, due to my lifelong love affair with baobabs that this script was first written. Baobabs have long represented for me my deeply ingrained passion for Africa. They remind me of our annual pilgrimages as a family up to Kruger and Zimbabwe. They represent for me the symbolic essence of what Africa is about: stark, striking and resilient in winter; bountiful and breath-taking in summer. They are also played an integral part in folklore for generations and, most importantly, are proudly African!

This next recollection, and the almost final chronicle of our trip, is a deeply personal one, but it is one I want to share. I am sure it is also the feeling of every overlander who has had the privilege to explore our blessed continent!

To watch the sunrise over the Baines’ Baobabs was something I had dreamed of for so long. To sit on the gnarled roots and to look up at the trunks of these magnificent trees, etched in history, was humbling. These are trees that have stood as fortresses over the pans and the changing of the world for centuries past and will do for centuries to come. Sitting in silence, with a cup of tea in hand and tears gently rolling down my face, I gave thanks for being able to do an expedition of this magnitude after the strain of trying to steer a travel business through the Covid storm and for the undying support of my colleague, Agatha. Also for being safe and protected over the last 4 months, to my incredible family (who also took me on my first safari at the age of one and instilled in me my love of road trips), all my friends, Jo, Paul and Stacey for believing in my dreams and supporting me along the way. Most notably, I was fiercely proud of being an African and for being able to share with people around the world the beauty of her people, landscapes, wildlife and all the other experiences that make this continent what it is.

Lovers playing not so Nxai’ce at Nxai Pans!

Cooling down and thinking about what he did!

An ellie sniffing out trouble (and gin?) (Stacey)

A picture perfect sunset…

This elephant was clearly tired of the lions getting all of the attention – Exhibit A. (Stacey)

Exhibit B!

A memorable and humbling encounter!

To say that arriving at Khama Rhino Sanctuary was a somewhat bittersweet and sombre moment would be putting it kindly. As we sat under the trees of our campsite, the realities of life started to swirl back into our minds, that uneasy edginess that any overlander or wilderness lover feels when they know that they need to go back to pay their dues whilst dreaming up the next adventure. The greater powers that be however, were not going to let these thoughts rain on our parade, well actually they did, but in the form of the most beautiful of blessings. During our safari around the park we encountered old overlanding friends who invited us for a group dinner around the fire, where stories were shared and brandy was sacrificed to the earth in recognition of all our journeys. Many laughs were had and the camaraderie of overlanding was highlighted. It was also towards the end of the evening that the heavens opened, our first rains in 4 months, refreshing the sun-dried earth with its first summer rains. This, for me, was my sign that the safari gods were telling us it was time to head home, to celebrate in the adventure and to start again, refreshed and full of inspiration.