AN OVERLANDING DREAM TO A JOURNEY: WESTERN ZAMBIA

After only being in Zambia for 2 weeks, we very quickly learnt that the friendly smiles of the local people were totally innocent. Zambians know how to have a good time and are not shy to get you involved! Livingstone, Kariba and the lower Zambezi had delivered some delightfully colourful humans with many a memory etched into my mind due to these special interactions. But it was time to now head deep into the wilderness and away from these crazy cohorts! So it was with a strong sense of deja vu that we headed north once more and on to ‘The Great North Road’ and the Copperbelt region of Zambia.

With no real set agenda for the next 3 to 4 weeks of our Zambia expedition, other than identifying some key areas we wanted to go to including West Lunga National Park, Mwinulunga and Kafue National Park, we decided to not drive too far on the first day and rather spend some time restocking in Lusaka before heading into the relative unknown. The famed roads of Zambia were somewhat kind to us I feel and although it was a 2 day stop-start drive to the Copperbelt our spirits were high. Having no set plan is what I find to be one of the most compelling elements of overlanding. In a world and job where everything needs to be calculated, orderly and planned, allowing oneself the opportunity to go with the flow (but minding the Zambian potholes) is a welcome relief, if not a little unsettling to begin with, as my A and B type personalities tend to run in unison, and often in argument with each other.

Overnighting at a bird sanctuary just outside of Kitwe, with an untouched lake to ourselves and the Brachystegia towering above us, made us bristle with excitement for what was to come. It was also at this little hideout that I had perhaps one of the most humbling and memorable encounters with a local Zambian. This man was Bonaventuri and through broken conversation it felt like he had been working in this little sanctuary since time immemorial. His memory, however, was amazing, as he recounted in detail every warden, boss and manager he had had in the decades past. Regaling us with simplified stories of his family and farm life, he also enthralled us on how the world had changed in his time, the privilege he felt to be a custodian of this land and the joy and meaning his job provided him. For me, it is this largely golden thread coursing through most people of Africa that makes it the most incredible place in the world, a place I am proud to call home and encourage people from near and far to explore. There is a sense of genuine sincerity in the everyday people that live here: kind, humble, honest and engaging. It was with a heavy heart that we departed, not before sharing farewells and polaroids together.

Chembe Bird Sanctuary at dusk.

We had the entire sanctuary to ourselves for the night!

Next up was Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage, a sanctuary for rescued chimpanzees. For the most part, I have shared my feelings on the place here but I think it was always going to be hard seeing these remarkable animals in relative captivity and knowing their personal stories. Chimps have probably been the one animal that have had the most profound effect on me on. More so than lions, gorillas, elephants or meerkats (my favourite animal) or any other animal. They are so human-like, so expressive, so aware. If you have not already done so, I strongly suggest planning a trip to visit these remarkable animals somewhere in Africa, and if that is not quite possible right now, then be sure to have a watch of Jane Goodall’s The Hope or Jane.

A pensive moment in between squabbles and feeding!

Feeding time is always quite an animated affair at Chimfunshi.

A mouthful of n’shima!

From here we headed onwards to Solwezi for a restock and were not 100% sure where we were actually heading. So, working on a tip-off , we made our way to an area just east of the West Lunga National Park, praying that the information was correct, as we felt like we were driving deeply into the middle of nowhere fast! What a find it was though. We spent a few days walking and exploring, bird watching, photographing, getting much needed haircuts as well as doing a lot of nothing in our hammock. This was the Zambia wilderness we had dreamed of! The much longed for bush time we were having, was clearly making its mark felt as we came up with very creative themes for our photography walks, all while keeping our hopeful eyes peeled, trying to spot one of the rare pangolins in the region. It was whilst exploring the general Lunga region that we also had some of the most memorable times with the local children of Zambia. We had especially packed a bag full of blowing bubbles to hand out at the places we stayed. The initial response each and every time was met by abject fear as this little blonde-haired human magically blew bubbles out of her mouth. Kids ran up trees, behind huts and into each other in a desperate bid to evade the multi-coloured bubbles. However, with kids being kids, the innate curiosity within could not avoid an occasional peak until before long, one slowly by one, the kids emerged and fear turned into absolute delight until it felt like every person from the village was out and playing. Interestingly, none more so than the adults it felt, just showing us you are never too old to let that inner child out!

Zambia and sunsets, does it get any better?

Driving through the Miombo woodlands of the West Lunga region.

Looking up every tree trying to find the infamous tree pangolins! (Stacey)

Taking it all in whilst watching the sun set over the Kabompo River.

From here we headed to West Lunga National Park itself and spent 3 days talking to anti-poaching scouts, swimming in the small rapids, wild camping and taking in the raw wilderness of Zambia. The reality of the hardships faced by the locals here was also sadly apparent. Behind the smiles, joy and conversations are people living in abject poverty and hunger, resulting in poaching being a real issue. What started off as bushmeat hunting in generations past, has now turned into an almost full blown eradication of the wildlife in this area. This is evident by the massive fires raging through the parks as poachers set light to the dry dambo or wetlands, in a bid to draw the remaining animals out of the forest as the new green shoots emerge after the first summer rains. The work being done here is mostly thankless, hard and low paying but vital to the survival of Africa’s last relatively untouched wild areas.

Pausing to take in the beauty of West Lunga. (Stacey)

Wild camping close to West Lunga National Park.

Our wild campsite for the night alongside the Kabompo River. (Stacey)

The dambo’s at sunset make for some beautiful photographs.

The incredible team of rangers, scouts and police chiefs responsible for protecting the wildlife of West Lunga National Park.

After wild camping for a few days we felt quite ready for a few creature comforts as we headed north again and towards the source of the mighty Zambezi river. Decent accommodation in and around the area of Mwinilunga, we were soon to find out, is relatively few and far between and it was with a combination of luck and about the 10th page of Google that we finally found a place to stay – a beautiful unit on the edge of a cliff surrounded by thick forests and a small wildlife conservancy. The next day we were set to explore the source of the Zambezi and experience. the most important day of the trip for me. Not only was the source the turning point of our journey back down south, with notably heavier hearts, but it was also to experience the humble beginnings of this great river. For me, it was nothing short of remarkable. The river is the namesake of Zambia, based on either the local term ‘yambezhi’ meaning ‘the heart of all living things’ or alternatively ‘the river of God’ in the Lunda language, depending on where you read. It is also a river that has long played in my childhood memory – running around in the mist of Victoria Falls and exploring the length and breadth of Lake Kariba.

Someone misread the Garmin!

The mist made it impossible not to try out a bit of black and white photography.

Capturing the early morning work commute in black and white.

Walking through the forests on the border of DRC to find the source of the mighty Zambezi. (Stacey)

Finding the source of the Zambezi was one of my most memorable experiences to date. (Stacey)

Taking a sip of water from the source (which we also used to make a delicious cup of tea!). (Stacey)

A dreamy landscape for photographers just outside of Mwinilunga.

The reality of officially turning around was not made easier by the combination of receiving a traffic fine and navigating the potholed strewn T5. Having been in Zambia longer than expected, we also had to renew our visa, insurance and other paperwork. As this was all done in one day, including visiting the source of the Zambezi on the DRC border, we ended up having to sleep in the car outside a hotel near to Solwezi.

The road from Solwezi to Kafue’s Kabanga entry gate was a hair-raising one to say the least. A combination of knee-deep drifts of powdery red sand interspersed with hard-as-cement white sand corrugation and potholes, as well as a constant stream of mining trucks, resulted in a very long and exhausting 80km or so stretch of road from Kasempa to the turn off to the park. Fortunately once in the reserve and with a cold beverage in hand to wash down the dust with, we ran into 3 ladies, who we affectionately dubbed ‘Mozhi’s Angels’, that convinced us to turn around with them and drive back to their new campsite, just recently launched. Three days were enjoyed in their company as we did a safari to the Busanga floodplains as well as a fishing trip down the Lufupa River. From here, we tracked further south to the much vaunted Kasabushi where we were warmly and expertly hosted by the fantastic team there. Not only did we have great encounters with Africa’s Big 4, including 4 leopards in one sighting, we were also treated to a water safari by river cruise captain extraordinaire, Andy and his co-pilot, Libby. Our week in the Kafue suddenly felt all too short and we were soon back in the hustle and bustle of Lusaka to celebrate Stacey’s birthday with a surprise mini version of Zambezi Shores music festival and a special behind-the-scenes visit of the Lilayi Elephant Nursery.

With our hearts full and memory banks topped to the limit, we left early to take the long road south from Lusaka, over the Kafue and Zambezi river one last time and into Botswana for our whirlwind two week circuit of the northern regions of the country.